
Want to seal an Italian car? Treat it like a German car.
Rob is a frequent visitor to the blog and asked a great question on what we use to seal up Ferrari engines. As far as I’m concerned there aren’t any mysteries to assembling a Ferrari engine, the tolerances like piston clearance, valve lash and cam timing are very similar to other engines. Like all engines, cleanliness is close to holiness when putting them together, something we have seen countless times is an engine that is assembled without cleaning the crankshaft passages or bead blast abrasive that hasn’t been cleaned out thoroughly.
The real magic in assembling these cast aluminum engines is sealing them up to prevent leaks. We have come up with some great techniques mixed with praiseworthy products to make these engines tight. One technique is to have the early engines modified to use a lip seal instead of the “slinger” at the back of the crankshaft and another is to assemble the engine and let it sit on the bell housing overnight with red ATF or Marvel oil to check for leaks at the rear rope seal area the next morning.
Rob asked what we use for sealers and commented that he purchased “Hylomar” from his Harley Davidson dealer. Hylomar is made under license of Rolls Royce and is a waxy material that can fill voids and remain flexible. I’ve never been overly impressed with this product but it’s probably because I think Rolls Royce’s cars are a total joke and anything affiliated with them must suck.
We use a product from ELRING called Dirko (http://www.elring.de/index_en.php), lame name, amazing product. Like Hylomar, stays pliable to maintain a seal as castings move as they heat and cool but unlike Hylomar, it’s more of a silicone RTV that can fill large gaps easily which is necessary at the timing chain cover area. Hylomar is great in allowing you to reuse gaskets and the Dirko isn’t so sticky that it tears gasket paper but we never reuse gaskets anyhow. I guess if you were stranded it may be necessary to reuse.
Typically, you don’t need to coat the surfaces of the gaskets with a sealer, just hit the corners. On 308′s and 512′s they have a bunch of blunt ends of the gaskets at the cam covers that need a good smear of sealer similar but the main runs of paper are fine to leave without extra sealer. But, since we run a shop and hate to do things twice or have someone unhappy with a leak who is 8 hours away, we put a light smear on the entire gasket to be safe.